The medieval open-air museum is the name for the tiny town of San Gimignano, located in central Italy, in the province of Siena (Provincia di Siena). The city was included in the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites in 1990.
It seems that the destructive power of time was powerless in front of this fabulous corner of Tuscany. About two million tourists from all over the world come here annually to enjoy the picturesque nature and the spirit of centuries-old history, take a walk along the old streets and squares, see first-hand amazing architectural monuments and taste the exquisite taste of local wine.
Story
San Gimignano owes its unique appearance to a long and interesting history. Initially, it was a small village founded back in the distant III century BC. e. Etruscans (as evidenced by numerous archaeological research). After the fall of ancient civilization, the Romans settled here. They built a small fortification, calling it Castello della Selva (Castello de la Selva), which in Russian means "fortress in the woods." After the collapse of the Roman Empire, the village did not cease to exist. In the X century BC e., having already become a full-fledged city, it was renamed San Gimignano, in honor of the Catholic Saint Geminian of Modena.
In the early Middle Ages, it was an important trade and administrative center connecting Rome with Northern Europe. For several centuries, the city has developed and flourished. Locals were actively engaged in commerce: they sold wine, olive oil and saffron, for many, usury served as a source of income.
Wealthy citizens became the founders of influential family clans who built the famous high towers (a symbol of power and prosperity), which are today the hallmark of San Gimignano. By the fourteenth century there were more than 70 of them, but only 14 survived to this day.
Despite the many years of internecine feud between powerful families, the ongoing political struggle, the confrontation with Florence and the subsequent transfer under its jurisdiction (1352), the Middle Ages became the golden era for San Gimignano. The economy collapsed after the plague pandemic that swept the region several times: the first terrible epidemic, which claimed the lives of more than half of the townspeople, occurred in 1348. Outbreaks of deadly disease also occurred in the 15th and 17th centuries.
The city went bankrupt, turning into a quiet outback. Only in the 19th century did San Gimignano, which sprawls on the top of an almost 300-meter-high hill above the Elsa River Valley, begin to attract travelers with its color and originality, and quickly gained the status of a prosperous tourist center in Italy.
Every year in June, local residents (no more than 7 thousand people) hold jousting tournaments for the guests of the city (Giostra dei Bastoni, which translates as “stick battles”), a harvest festival (Ferie delle Messi), medieval street-styled street performances, parades, fireworks, fairs, opera and theater productions, colorful show programs.
In 2019, the festival will be held June 15-16. You can follow the current schedule and news on the website www.cavalieridisantafina.it
Numerous souvenir shops sell pottery made by local artisans and sweets. Enoteca shops scattered throughout the city offer the famous white wine Vernaccia di San Gimignano, considered the best in Tuscany.
Sights
The main attractions of San Gimignano include:
- Cathedral of San Gimignano;
- Chapel of Santa Fina;
- Cathedral Square;
- Well area;
- Museum of Torture;
- Wine Museum
- Church of San Pietro;
- Church of St. Augustine.
The historic center of San Gimignano is surrounded by a fortified wall built in the second half of the 13th century (its length is a little over 2 km). Tourists usually enter the city through the main entrance: the gates of Porta San Giovanni. All sights are located nearby, and you can explore them by walking for 1-2 days.
San Gimignano Cathedral
The main cathedral in the city - Collegiata di Santa Maria Assunta (Collegiata di Santa Maria Assunta), often called simply the Duomo (el Duomo), is a vivid example of strict Romanesque architecture. The construction of the temple began around 1056, a hundred years later it was consecrated. In the XIII - XV centuries, the church building was reconstructed and completed, eventually acquiring its current appearance.
The laconic and restrained facade contrasts sharply with the interior of the cathedral, full of masterpieces of sculpture and painting. The walls and arches are decorated with a cycle of beautifully preserved frescoes. Their authorship belongs to the outstanding masters of the Siena School of Fine Arts:
- Duccio di Buoninsegna;
- Bartolo di Fredi (Bartolo di Fredi);
- Jacopo della Quercia (Jacopo della Quercia).
The bizarre geometric ornament of wall paintings harmoniously combines with religious subjects from the New and Old Testament, as well as scenes from the biographies of the holy righteous. The main artistic reception of the frescoes: a game of contrasts and bold color schemes.
Capella Santa Fina
The Santa Fina Chapel (Cappella di Santa Fina) is part of the temple complex of the Cathedral of San Gimignano, and is considered to be its main pearl. The chapel was erected in 1468, the architectural solution, as well as the interior decoration (sculptural work) was carried out according to the design of the brothers Giuliano and Benedetto da Mayano, and is fully consistent with the style of the Early Renaissance.
The interior of the chapel is decorated with magnificent frescoes created by the Florentine painter Domenico Ghirlandaio in the 70s of the XV century. The plot of the murals is based on the life of Seraphim (Fina), a young local righteous woman (1238 - 1253), who, after her death, was counted among the saints for her prayerful feat and gift of healing, and who became the patroness of the city.
- Official site of the cathedral: www.duomosangimignano.it
- Museum Hours: Monday Friday from 10:00 to 19:30, Saturday from 10:00 to 17:30, Sunday from 12:30 to 19:30.
- Tickets: adult - 4 euros, children - 2 euros.
Cathedral Square: its palaces and towers
Paved with paving stones, the trapezoidal square of Piazza del Duomo is one of the main attractions of the city. In the Middle Ages, it served as the center of important political and religious events.
An interesting, from the point of view of culture and history, place has remained unchanged since the first half of the 13th century. It was then (in addition to the main cathedral) that monumental architectural structures were built for the municipal authorities and the houses of influential citizens:
- Palazzo vecchio del Podesta - the old palace of the head of administration, crowned by the second highest (51 m) tower of Rognosa (Torre Rognosa), which is also called the Clock Tower (Torre dell'Orologio).
- People's Palace (Palazzo del Popolo)Also known as the Palazzo Comunale or the New Palace of the Podesta (Palazzo nuovo del Podesta) with the Great Tower or Torre Grossa (Torre Grossa). "Medieval skyscraper" has the status of the highest in the city (54 m). The tower is accessible to visitors and offers its guests breathtaking panoramic views of the surroundings of San Gimignano. Since 1852, the city museum (Museo Civico) has been located in the old building of the palace. In four exhibition halls, priceless works of Florentine and Siena painters of the 13th - 16th centuries are presented.
- Salvonchi towers, also called Torri dei Salvucci - Two 48-meter twin skyscrapers, built by order of representatives of an influential local clan. One of the buildings still remains residential, used as an elite, 10-story hotel for tourists. The cost of living in 3-bed apartments is about 350 euros / day, it doesn’t scare many people and they are usually booked for several months ahead wishing to immerse themselves in history.
Well area
Small in size, triangular Well square, called in the Italian manner Piazza della Cisterna, is today the busiest place.
It was even more crowded in the Middle Ages. Then trade was actively conducted on the square, the market was functioning, tournaments and festivals were organized.
An old well, darkened over time and covered with moss, adorns the urban space today. At its steps tourists like to relax and take pictures. The architectural ensemble of the square, formed in the XIII century, remained untouched by time, all houses retained their original appearance.
Many buildings, as befits old buildings, were overgrown with mysterious legends and legends. Of particular note in this sense is the Tower of the Devil, towering above Piazza Torre del Diavolo. The structure is built of white limestone and is part of the palace complex of the Palazzo de'Cortesi. According to legend, the tower got such a frightening name due to its rich owner, who had once returned from a long trip, and decided that the already tall structure had increased in size due to the intervention of otherworldly forces.
Museum of Torture and Execution
Within the walls of the Devil's Tower is the Museum of Torture (Museo della Tortura).
The entrance to it is preceded by a warning inscription that visiting children, women and impressionable people can cause a serious nervous shock. The exposition presents a rich collection of torture instruments, creepy execution tools of medieval inquisitors. Wax figures of mutilated bodies realistically recreate genre scenes illustrating the horror and pain of victims of judicial institutions of the "dark" time.
- Official website of the museum: www.torturemuseum.it
- Opening hours: daily from 10:00 to 19:00;
- Ticket price: adult - 10 euros, children - 7 euros.
A similar thematic Museum of Medieval Criminology (Museo di Criminologia Medievale) is located in the adjacent building. Exhibits collected from different parts of Europe tell of the inhuman methods of executing the death penalty that existed several centuries ago.
Vernaccia di San Gimignano and Wine Museum
The local white wine Vernaccia di San Gimignano (Vernaccia) is well known throughout the world. It is considered the oldest in Italy, made since the 13th century, and mention of it is found even in the "Divine Comedy" by Dante Alighieri.
In 1966, the wine was awarded the special DOC insignia (Denominazione di Origine Controllata). After 27 years, having passed a series of strict state checks, manufacturers of Vernaccia di San Gimignano received the right to affix the DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) honorary mark around the bottle neck, which confirms compliance with the highest national quality criteria.
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Local wine has greatly glorified the city, for several centuries it played such an important role in the life of San Gimignano that a special museum was created in his honor. It is located in a wonderful, picturesque place, on a hilltop, in a small villa of the ancient fortress of Montestaffoli (Villa della Rocca di Montestaffoli). The Vernaccia di San Gimignano Wine Museum (Il Museo del Vino della Vernaccia di San Gimignano) invites its visitors to plunge into the history of the region and taste different varieties of the famous drink on the open observation terrace.
- Museum site of Vernaccia: www.sangimignanomuseovernaccia.com
- Address: Via della Rocca, 1, 53037 San Gimignano SI
- Working hours: every day from 11:30 to 19:30
Church of San Pietro
Designed in a Romanesque style, the small one-nave church of San Pietro in Forliano is located in the northern part of the city, not far from the ramparts, in Piazza Sant'Agostino, a small but picturesque place.
The first mention of the temple dates back to the 60s of the XIII century. The facade of the building is laconic, simplicity and the absence of any decorative elements. Inside the walls are decorated with interesting frescoes of religious subjects, the authorship of which is Memmo di Filippuccio, a prominent representative of the Siena school of painting. The famous Italian master worked long and fruitfully in San Gimignano, and had the official status of an urban artist (this position was invented by the authorities in 1271).
Church of St. Augustine
Church of St. Augustine (Chiesa di Sant'Agostino) is located on the square of the same name, surrounded by low private houses. It was built in the second half of the XIII century, in the spirit of late Romanesque and Gothic architecture, and still remains an active temple.
Outside, the building seems restrained and unremarkable. Inside the church is a real treasury of pictorial art: the interior is decorated with wall paintings by great Italian artists.
These included:
- Pierre Francesco Fiorentino;
- Benozzo Gozzoli (Benozzo Gozzoli);
- Bartolo di Fredi (Bartolo di Fredi).
Magnificent sculptural works are executed by Benedetto da Mayano (Benedetto da Maiano), Tino di Camaino (Tino di Camaino) and other outstanding masters.
How to get there
While in Tuscany, San Gimignano is equally easy to reach, heading from Pisa, Siena and Florence. The most convenient way is to use a rented car, the rental price is from 40 euros / day. If you are not afraid of adventures and want to get acquainted with Italian regional transport, then you can try your luck and get there by regular buses.
From siena
The journey from Siena to San Gimignano will take at least 1 hour.
The www.tiemmespa.it shuttle bus N130 runs several times a day from the Via Tozzi stop next to the Statua di Garibaldi statue, making 71 stops along the way. In San Gimignano, the bus arrives at Piazzale Montemaggio. Tickets cost 6.20 euros.
From Florence
The distance from Florence to San Gimignano is about 40 km. If you go by public transport, the road will take 1.5-2 hours, as you have to make a transfer in the city of Poggibonsi. Part of the journey can also be covered by train, leaving Florence Central Station (Santa Maria Novella) to Poggibonsi - S. Gimignano Station, and then take the shuttle bus.
From pisa
The distance from Pisa to San Gimignano is approximately 80 km. You will also have to travel by train and bus with a change in Poggibonsi.
Where to stay
Of course, in order to truly try to feel the spirit of the city and the region, you need to stay here for at least one night. Staying in a hotel in the historical center makes sense only if you travel by public transport. I advise you to pay attention to Leon Bianco and Locanda La Mandragola.
For motorists, I recommend booking a few nights at the B&B Countryhouse Villa Baciolo. Just look at his photos and read reviews on the booking - this is how a small Tuscan paradise looks like.
The cost of a double room per day is about 105 euros. There is free parking for guests, a pool, a delicious breakfast.
I recommend booking this fairy tale at least 3 months in advance, for example, in April I barely picked up free dates for the end of June. Nearby, in addition to San Gimignano, the beautiful cities of Santa Lucia, ride 10 minutes, and Volterra (23 km).
You can also see other farmhouse options.Here is a video review of the villa where we stayed in the summer of 2018:
Share your reviews and photos in the comments. If you need advice on the topic of the article, I’m in touch.
